Geometric Wallet

Load the Geometric Wallet (Cut & Stitch) file in your cutting machine’s software.

To ensure that the wallet fits a standard credit card, make sure all pieces are sized correctly in your cutting software. Group and scale all pieces together. For CGS6658 Geometric Wallet, the size of file A is 11.499” x 22.92”, and the size of file B is 8.75” x 8.75”.

This demonstration uses only one thin leather color, but the wallet can also be made out of two colors if desired. Proceed in the design software until the first color selection appears, and is ready to be cut.

Smooth the first material onto the adhesive mat with the right side facing down. Because the right side of the material is facing down, make sure the pieces are mirrored. Then load the adhesive mat into the machine.

For each material, make sure to use the correct settings on your cutting machine to match the material you’ve chosen. Make sure the correct knife tool is also in place.

Cut out the first color selection. Then carefully remove the cut pieces and excess materials.

Repeat to cut all of the leather pieces for the wallet out of both colors.

As all the stitching will be visible from both sides, wind a bobbin with the thread being used in the top needle.

First pick up all three small pocket pieces (color 1) and one of the two large pocket pieces (color 1). Sew an 1/8” seam along one long side of each of these four pocket pieces.

This step makes the inside of the wallet look finished, but is not necessary. If you don’t like the look of the stitching along the top edge of the pockets, you can skip this step.

Temporary spray adhesive is a good alternative to pinning when using a material that pins will leave permanent holes in (such as leather). Sewing clips are another good option, but for this demonstration we will be using adhesive. Most temporary spray adhesives will wear off after a couple days.

Spray the back side of one small pocket piece with temporary adhesive.

Then use a ruler to position it on the large pocket piece with a stitched side, matching up the edges short sides. The unsewn long side of the small pocket should be 1” up from the unsewn long side of the large pocket.

Then sew an 1/8” seam along the unsewn long side of the small pocket piece.

This will sew the two pieces together, and make the bottom of the first pocket.

Spray the back side of another small pocket piece.

Position it on the same large pocket piece, matching up the bottom corners and edges that have no sewing. This pocket will cover the bottom edge of the first small pocket. Do not sew this pocket down yet.

Use a ruler and a marking tool to draw a center line down the middle of the two small pockets.

Do not draw on the large pocket piece. The center of this piece is 4 3/8” from either short side.

Then sew the along the marked line, and make sure to only sew on the small pockets. This divides the two small pocket pieces into four credit card sized pockets.

This completes this pocket section. Set it aside for now.

Next, pick up the zipper pocket piece (color 1), and your chosen zipper that is wider than the long side of the pocket piece (12” or more).

Spray the back side of the zipper pocket with temporary adhesive. This time you can spray just around the rectangle opening that will be the window for the zipper.

Leave the zipper closed for now. Position the zipper on the back of the zipper pouch with the front side facing down. This way when you turn it right side up, the front side of the zipper and pocket will be facing up.

Make sure the teeth of the zipper are centered in the opening, and that the zipper hangs over both sides of the pocket piece.

Locate which side the slider of the zipper is on. In this example, it is on the left side. Make sure this is the side you leave unsewn. Sew a 1/8” seam along the other 3 sides of the zipper opening, leaving the small side nearest the zipper slide open.

For example, we left the left side unsewn for now.

Then open the zipper until the slider is inside of the leather opening. Use a sewing pin to pin the two open tails of the zipper together for now.

Then sew a 1/8” seam along the remaining side (for example, now that the zipper slider is in place, we closed the left side). This is the easiest way to sew the zipper in place. Having the zipper closed for most of the sewing makes it easier to center and control.

Cut the two sides of the zipper off.

Make sure they sit about half way between the stitching and the outer edges of the zipper pocket piece.

Spray the back side of the remaining small pocket piece with temporary adhesive.

Then place it on top of the zipper pocket piece, so it matches up with the long side and corners farthest away from the zipper.

Use the ruler and marking tool to draw the center line down the middle of the small pocket. Do not draw on the zipper pouch at all. The center line is 4 3/8” from either side.

Then sew along the marked center line, again making sure to only sew on the small pocket.

Then spray the back side of the last large pocket piece.

Matching up the outer edges, place it on the back side of the zipper pocket piece with wrong sides together.

Sew a 1/8” along the long side closest to the zipper. This will create the top edge of the zipper pocket.

This pocket is complete as well and should show the right side of the leather on both sides. Set it aside for now.

Take the outer piece (color 1), and locate the two tiny triangle cut outs. One will be located in the solid area, and the other will be at the end of the strap. These small holes are for the snaps. The snap’s posts should fit through them, but the holes can be made wider with a craft knife if necessary. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to set the pretty half of the snap on the strap.

Then place the other half in the solid area.

Then spray the back side of the outer piece with temporary adhesive. For best results, do not spray the back side of the strap as it will not be sticking to anything.

Then smooth the accent piece on the back side of the outer piece. Make sure the right side of the accent piece can be seen through the cut design on the right side of the outer piece. Match up the edges as best as possible. Cutting machines do not cut perfectly when the material has some stretch, so do not worry if the accent piece hangs over a little on one or two sides.

There is a center bar left in the cut details of the design. Use a ruler and marking tool to draw a line down the center of that center bar.

Then stitch along the marked line. This will help the two layers stay together once the glue wears off.

Lay the outer pieces down on the table so the back side of the accent piece is facing up. Spray the back side of the zipper pouch (the side without the zipper) with temporary adhesive.

Position it on the back side of the outer piece. Match the bottom edge and corners (the edge farthest from the zipper) up with the side that has the strap.

Then spray the back side of the other pocket piece, and position it on the opposite side of the outer piece.

Make sure the bottom edge of the pocket (the side with the small pocket) is matched up with the outer edge of the outer piece. In the end the center line holding the outer piece and accent piece together should be completely visible between the pockets.

Now that all the layers are together, sew a 1/4” seam around all four edges of the outer piece.

Do not sew down the strap. This will bind all the layers together, and close all remaining edges of the pockets on the inside.

The accent piece and pockets may stick out past the edges of the accent piece due to normal cutting machine error. Simply trim everything back to match up with the edges of the accent piece, but do not cut the accent piece down at all.

Then crease fold and crease the wallet along the sewn center line on the outer piece. A bone folder can help to get a crisp fold.

If you used spray adhesive, use your fingers to open up all the pockets. Then make sure to open up the zipper pouch as well. Forcing them open will help the glue wear off faster.

This completes the leather wallet.

Repeat these steps to make a variety of wallets to use or give as gifts. Make sure not to resize this design, as it is sized specifically to fit a standard credit card.