Chic Cutwork Tote

Load the Chic Cutwork Tote (Cut & Stitch) file into your cutting machine’s software. Notice that it has multiple cutting files to fit all the pieces. These are labeled with “A”, “B”, “C”, etc., and are organized by how they fit into a file and not necessarily by fabric.

This design has two different fabric colors across the files. Proceed in the design software until the first color selection appears, and is ready to be cut.

Smooth the first fabric color onto the adhesive mat with the right side of the fabric facing up. Make sure the correct knife tool is in place. Then load the adhesive mat into the machine.

For real or faux leather, make sure to use the correct setting on your cutting machine to match the material you’ve chosen.

Cut out the first color. Then carefully remove the cut pieces and excess fabric.

Repeat to cut all of the pieces for the tote bag out of the two fabric colors.

Take the outer side pieces (color 1), and match them up with right sides together. Clip or pin along the two sides and the bottom edge, leaving the top edge and the two bottom corners open. For leather and faux leather, using clips instead of pins will prevent holes from being poked in the leather.

Sew a 1/4” seam along the two sides and the bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.

Also leave the two square, bottom corners open and unsewn for now.

Next take one of the square, bottom corners, and match up the edges and seams. Make sure the right sides are together, and clip or pin the edges together.

Sew a 1/4” seam along the pinned edge. Repeat for the other corner.

Then take the two lining side pieces (color 2), and match them up with right sides together. Pin along the two sides and the bottom edge, making sure to leave the top edge and the two square, bottom corners open.

Sew a 1/4” seam along the pinned edges.

Next take one of the square, cut out corners, and match up the edges and seams. Make sure the right sides are together, and pin the edges together.

Sew a 1/4” seam along the pinned edge. Repeat for the other corner.

Once both the outer and lining sides of the bags are sewn, turn the leather side right side out, and place it inside of the lining side with right sides together.

Match up the side seams and top edges and clip or pin them together. Using clips instead of pins will prevent holes from being poked in the leather.

Then sew a 1/4” seam along the top edge.

Make sure to leave a 6”-7” opening along one side for turning. The thicker or stiffer the leather is, the bigger you’ll want the hole to be, so it is easier to turn.

Turn the tote bag right side out.

Using a pressing cloth and iron on low heat, press the top seam. Also fold in the raw edges of the opening 1/4”, and press the fold.

To make the thread match both the outer fabric and the lining while sewing, place the thread matching outer fabric’s color in the top needle, and the thread matching lining’s color in the bobbin.

Top stitch an 1/8” seam along the entire top edge, creating a polished, finished edge and closing the opening.

To hold the lining in place inside of the leather tote, it is important to sew the leather and lining layers together in each of the bottom four corners. Doing this will make the bag sturdier and easier to use. Take a hand sewing needle and thread matching the outer fabric, and sew a couple stitches all the way through both the outer and lining layers in each of the bottom corner of the tote bag.

To make the straps, spray the wrong side of a strap piece (color 1) with temporary adhesive. Line up the edges, and smooth it onto another strap piece with wrong sides together. Repeat for the other strap pieces.

Then wind a bobbin to match the thread being used in the top needle, so the all the thread matches the fabric on both sides of the strap.

Sew an 1/8” seam along each long side.

It is very important to stop sewing 1 1/2” away from both ends of the straps, so the straps can be properly sewn onto the tote. This can be marked with a marking pen or masking tape. Do not sew the two layers of the straps together at the ends.

Each strap end should be placed 5 1/2” away from the closest side seam.

Place the end of the straps around the top edge of the tote bag so the wrong side of the two strap pieces are against the right side of the outer fabric and lining of the tote. Think of it almost like an alligator chomping on the top edge of the bag, so the top and bottom jaw will be around both sides.

Then topstitch an 1/8” seam around all the ends of the straps. Make sure to still use a top thread and a bobbin thread that matches the fabric for best results.

This will create a clean finished look to the straps on both the inside and outside of the tote.

This completes the Chic Cutwork Tote. Repeat these steps to make a collection of totes in different colors. Make sure not to resize these designs, as the seam allowance makes them unscalable.